2004 VW R32 – Headlight Lens Refurbishing

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While one of our longtime VW R32 customers was in for repairs, we performed a headlight lens refurbishing.

Headlight Refurbishing

The Process

His R32 was in for a water pump, thermostat, coolant bypass pipe (crack pipe), and power steering pump. We also performed regular maintenance. First, we start by removing the headlights from his VW. Next, we wet sand the entire lens. We use 330 grit sandpaper, which removes oxidation, pits, nicks and blemishes. Thirdly, we move on to 400, 600, and 1200 grit sandpaper. Now that headlight is extremely smooth, we appy our headlight len refurbishing treatment.

Headlight Lens Refurbishing

We use a new way to clean headlights. It’s different! We don’t polish. Also, we skip the clear coat. We remove the yellow haze, then add a special treatment. This takes only five minutes per light. Now, the R32’s headlights look brand new! To keep them safe from Seattle weather for a year, we add a thin layer of nano ceramic coating.

As you can see, the lights look almost like new. We can’t make them 100% perfect. There are small flaws inside the light housing. But, cleaning your headlights is much cheaper than buying new ones. New Mk4 R32 headlights cost over $600 for a pair, plus the cost to put them in.

Read more

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The True Cost of Cheap – Why Quality European Auto Repair Matters

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The True Cost of Cheap: Why Quality European Auto Repair Matters

 

We are often asked to address The True Cost of Cheap & ‘Why do we need to replace additional parts’, when repairing our customers European cars. The answer is, due to European vehicles intricate engineering, these vehicles demand specialized care. At Meister Werks, we understand that quick and cheap fixes often lead to long-term headaches. While attempting to save money upfront, the “band-aid” approach to European auto repair can ultimately cost you more and waste your time. More over, it always makes it more difficult, time consuming, and in the end, more costly by not replacing associated parts during a repair. For example, if your car has 80,000 miles and a part breaks, the associated parts that are not broken still have 80,000 miles on them. Consequently, it is highly likely that those parts will fail when installing a brand new part.


The Pitfalls of the True Cost of Cheap aka “Just the Necessary Part”

The allure of a low-cost repair is understandable. However, focusing solely on one failed part ignores the interconnected nature of your vehicle’s systems. When a component fails, it often indicates underlying issues or accelerated wear in related parts.

For example, replacing a worn-out water pump on your European car, without addressing the aging thermostat or radiator hoses, that might seem efficient. However, the new pump places increased stress on these older, weaker components, leading to their premature failure. For example, belts, tensioner assemblies, and idler pulleys. Due to the True Cost of Cheap, you’re back in the shop, facing another repair bill and downtime.

Furthermore, cheap, aftermarket parts often lack the quality and precision of genuine or original equipment supplier (OES) parts. This can result in poor fitment, reduced performance, and a shorter lifespan, ultimately requiring replacement sooner than expected.

The Meister Werks Approach: Comprehensive and Correct

At Meister Werks, we believe in doing the job right the first time. This means:

  • Thorough Diagnostics: We don’t just fix the symptom; we identify the root cause. OBDII output tests and guided diagnostics on our factory scan tools will allow us to identify check engine lights and/or poorly running engines.
  • Genuine or OES Parts: We use only the highest-quality parts that meet or exceed manufacturer specifications and will never void any warranties.
  • Comprehensive Repairs: We address all related components that show signs of wear or potential failure. For example, when replacing a drive belt, we highly suggest replacing the idler and tensioner assemblies while performing this service. About 90% of the time, a new belt will cause pulleys to squeak and fail days or weeks after the replacement.
  • Preventative Maintenance: We advise on preventative measures to avoid future issues. Another example, when replacing spark plugs, we highly suggest replacing the ignition coil packs at the same time.

The True Cost of Cheap

True Cost of Cheap – Why Replacing Related Parts is Essential

Consider a suspension repair. Replacing a worn control arm without addressing the tie rod ends or ball joints is a short-sighted approach. The new control arm will place stress on these aging components, which are likely experiencing similar wear. This leads to premature failure, alignment issues, and compromised handling.

By replacing all related parts simultaneously, we ensure:

  • System Harmony: All components work together optimally, extending their lifespan. (Belts, Idlers, and Tensioners)
  • Improved Performance: Your car handles and performs as intended. (Shocks, Shock Mounts, & Stabilizers links)
  • Long-Term Savings: You avoid repeat repairs and costly breakdowns.
  • Peace of Mind: You know your vehicle is safe and reliable.

 

Investing in Quality, Not Quick Fixes

European cars deserve meticulous care. At Meister Werks, we prioritize quality, precision, and long-term reliability. We understand that a well-maintained vehicle is an investment in your safety, comfort, and driving enjoyment.

In conclusion, don’t let a “cheap” repair become an expensive mistake. Trust Meister Werks to provide the expert care your European car deserves. We do it right, so you can drive with confidence.

Meister Werks Parts Brands

* We also carry Genuine Mini, Volvo, SmartCar, etc., and all OES Manufacturer Brands for all makes and models. 

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BMW Battery Replacement Information

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BMW Battery Replacement Information

Replacing a BMW battery is not as straightforward as you may think. Modern BMWs, equipped with sophisticated electronic systems. These require specific  coding to ensure functionality and prevent issues. Below is a comprehensive guide for BMW owners.

 

 

Why Battery Replacement in a BMW is Unique

Firstly, a modern BMWs utilizes a battery management systems (BMS). This monitor and regulates the battery performance. Another key point, this requires the vehicle be coded to a new battery. Furthermore, simply swapping the battery without coding can lead to several problems.

The information from BMW’s ISTA factory scan tool lists the following information for your BMW Battery replacement.

  • Please observe without fail the following information on correct battery replacement! . Using ISTA Document “RA_61_20”, notes on battery replacement.
  • For further information, we find the master document in the battery modules. All BMW platforms are a little different, so it does take time to find all of the information in your BMW.
  • Ensure correct electrical system function. It is essential we install the original battery stored in the vehicle.
  • On vehicles with IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) the battery must be registered via the diagnosis system. This will reprogram the vehicle electrical system. Often the IBS has been superseded by a new version of the IBS and needs to be replaced. Some vehilces require one or two different pigtail adapters to allow the IBS to function better.
  • Standard batteries can always be replaced with AGM batteries. Although, they must match the same specification. In this procedure, you must register the vehicle and code the battery. We read out the battery size and registration in the vehicle electrical system. Using BMW’s ISTA scan tool, we use the Service functions. Then enter the Body module and Power supply. After that, we register a battery replacement. Finally, we veify the settings have been entered and saved.

The Importance of BMW Battery Coding:

  • Battery Registration. Coding a BMW battery tells the BMS that a new battery has been installed. This allows the system to adjust charging parameters and optimize battery lifespan.
  • Preventing Overcharging. Without coding, the BMS may continue to use charging parameters suitable for the old, degraded battery, potentially overcharging the new battery. Overcharging can lead to premature battery failure and damage to the vehicle’s electrical system.
  • Optimizing Battery Performance. The BMS adapts its charging strategy based on the battery’s age and condition. Coding helps a new battery charge optimally, maximizing its performance and lifespan.
  • Error Codes and System Malfunctions. Failure to code the battery can trigger error codes and system malfunctions, potentially leading to warning lights and reduced functionality of certain vehicle systems.

Selecting the Correct BMW Battery:

  • Battery Type and Specifications: Specific battery types are a requirement for BMWs. Typically a AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery. To emphasize, these can handle the high electrical demands of modern vehicles. The wrong battery type will lead to poor performance and premature failure.
  • Capacity and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): The battery’s capacity (Ah) and CCA rating must match or exceed the specifications. To demonstrate, use a battery with a insufficient capacity or CCA can lead to starting problems and reduced electrical system performance.
  • Proper Fitment: The battery must physically fit within the vehicle’s battery compartment. This is because an improperly sized battery can lead to installation issues and potential damage.

The Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) and Ground Cable

Next, most BMWs equipped with an intelligent battery sensor (IBS) integrated into the negative battery cable. The IBS monitors various battery parameters, including voltage, current, and temperature, and transmits this data to the BMS.

  • IBS Function. The IBS is crucial for accurate battery management and charging. This helps the BMS to regulate charging and prolong battery life.
  • IBS Failure. Next, a IBS can fail due to various factors. This includes corrosion, electrical damage, and wear and tear. For example, a faulty IBS can lead to incorrect charging and battery failure.
  • Ground Cable Failure. The ground cable houses a IBS. This can also fail due to corrosion, damage, or loose connections. A faulty ground cable can lead to electrical issues, as well as starting problems.
  • Signs of IBS/Ground Cable Failure. Common signs of a failing IBS or ground cable include battery warning lights, starting problems, electrical system malfunctions, Inaccurate battery readings, and / or Increased battery drain

Professional Installations

BMW battery coding requires specialized diagnostic equipment and software. These are available our facility. Diagnosing IBS or ground cable issues requires expertise in BMW electrical systems. As shown above, using an authorized BMW service center, such as Meister Werks, can help maintain your vehicle’s warranty.

In Conclusion

In short, replacing a BMW battery is a complex procedure that requires careful attention to detail. Even more, Coding the battery is essential for proper battery management and optimal performance. Lastly, selecting the correct battery type and specifications is crucial for reliability. At the same time, Understanding the IBS and ground cable is vital for diagnosing and resolving electrical issues.

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1972 BMW 2002 Center Console

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Last week we designed and made a  1972 BMW 2002 Center Console for one of our customers. Our customer brought his 2002 in over a year ago to do some restoration work. This was one of the items on his list that he wanted, among many other items.

There are a few companies online that sell center console kits. However, most of them have 52mm gauge pods built in, or you have to buy multiple kits to get what you want. In this instance we designed to draft up our concept in Fusion 360 CAD and make it ourselves. We drafted up the basic profile of the sides. Then we 3d printed the sides, and test fit to make sure the fit was proper under the dash. After that we 3d printed drafts of the center sections. The first prints were about 15mm narrow on either side and did not allow us to put it under the dash.

After knowing the exact size, we changed a few features on the design. For example, we changed the cup holders from swuare to round. We did not like they was they looked and they did work correctly on the first draft. After finalizing our design, we started printing our final prints. We ended up using about 3kg or around 6.6lbs of filament with the drafts and final production pieces. Don’t mind the red size panel, I ran out of black filament. It will get covered up later, so I doesn’t really matter too much.

After the final parts were finished printing, we installed brass wood inserts into the plastic.  We use a torch to get the brass inserts hot, then screwed them in. If we didn’t get them hot first, the PETG plastic we use to print this would have cracked. PETG is a very strong plastic that is weather and UV safe. Similar to ABS, but easier to print than ABS but much stronger. Most people use PLA on there 3d printers. PLA breaks down overtime, is not UV, and will absorb moisture. PETG is more difficult to print than PLS and it requires a hotter temperature to extrude from the nozzle. We use special diamond tip nozzles and had to customize and modify our 3d printer. We do this in order for us get better quality prints off our printer.

Once the brass insert were installed we dry fit the parts together to make sure everything fit properly. Once we verified the fitment, we started wrapping the parts with marine grade vinyl upholstery . This material looks exactly like leather, and gives the piece a more vintage look and feel.

Once we installed all of the faux leather (pleather) on this BMW 2002 Center Console, we installed felt on the circumference of the cup holder inserts and rear tray. We also put felt around the outside of the cup holders and tray inserts to make sure there were no rattles. (not in photos) This also help press fit them into place, although, they can still be removed for cleaning purposes.

One other thing we noticed after the dry fit, the hazard button harness does not fit. We are also 3d printing a connector so we can elongate the harness and allow us to plug in the switch in the lower location. In hind sight, we should have put the switch up top, however we did not want the radio to be and knuckle height when shifting the BMW. I personally have owned vintage vehicles that had the radio directly infront of the shifter and always found myself touching the buttons when shifting into reverse, first, third and fifth gears. So having the button in this location, recessed, was probable a better decision.

 

For more information on how to get your European classic car in the shop for some service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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Porsche Spark Plugs Replacement

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Why you should replace the Spark Plugs on your Porsche at the Factory Service Interval 

At some 80,000-mile service intervals some Porsche may need the spark plugs replaced. Spark plugs and ignition coils are crucial for maintaining optimal engine performance and longevity. Here is some comprehensive information on why you need to perform this service.

Porsche Spark PlugsWhat Happens to Your Spark Plugs Over Time:

  • Plug Wear.
    Firstly, over time, these will experience wear and tear. The electrodes erode, the gap widens, and their ability to ignite the fuel-air mixture diminishes. This leads to:

    • Misfires.
      Secondly, incomplete combustion causes misfires, resulting in rough idling. As a result, this will decrease your engine power, and potential engine damage.
    • Reduced Fuel Efficiency.
      Thirdly, misfires and incomplete combustion decrease fuel efficiency. For example this will increasing fuel consumption.
    • Increased Emissions.
      Fourthly, worn spark plugs can contribute to increased emissions, harming the environment.
  • Ignition Coil Degradation.
    Ignition coils provide the high voltage necessary to ignite the spark plugs. Over time, they can deteriorate due to heat, vibration, and electrical stress. Additionally, this can lead to weak or intermittent sparks, resulting in misfires and similar issues as worn spark plugs.

By replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils at the recommended service intervals:

  • Restore Engine Performance.
    Ensure smooth, efficient, and powerful engine operation.
  • Improve Fuel Economy.
    Enhance fuel efficiency and save money on gas.
  • Reduce Emissions.
    Minimize harmful emissions and contribute to a cleaner environment.
  • Prevent Engine Damage.
    Avoid potential engine damage caused by misfires and incomplete combustion.
  • Maintain Peak Performance.
    In conclusion, keep your Porsche Cayenne running at its best and enjoy the exhilarating driving experience it was designed for.

Schedule your Appointment & More Info

For more information on how to get your Porsche in the shop for some service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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Differential Pinion Flange Repair – BMW F Body

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Differential Pinion Flange Repair – BMW F Body

The other day our new customer brought their BMW 528i xDrive to us and were able to perform a Differential Pinion Flange Repair. To back up a little, our customer had their BMW at the dealership about 5 days ago and were already having issues days after picking it up. For example, the issues included a heavy knocking check engine light, driveshaft flex joint (guibo) issue, thermostat faults, and a number of other problems.

Repairs

We were about to diagnose the thermostat, knocking faults, and other issues. The only thing we’ll say is, use a torque wrench at 19 Ft Lbs / 26nm is necessary when replacing spark plugs. For the flex joints the dealership did tell them that the front and rear joints needed replaced. We removed the exhaust, then the driveshaft flex joints, and last the driveshaft supports. We then noticed that the differential input flange was the cause of the guibo failure. As you can see from the video below, there was an obvious issue.


 

Firstly, we removed the Differential Pinion Flange 48mm nut, buffer seal, and rubber washer. Secondly, we pulled the repair kit that we keep in stock. The BMW Part No. is 33127607158 / 33 12 7 607 158. Additionally, this is in the BMW part catalog as “Differential Cover Repair Kit – BMW (33-12-7-607-158)”. The full install guide is located here.

Notes:

  • Read this entire guide in the link above. You MUST NOT move the larger 12pt nut on the differential or serious damage may occur to the differential.
  • The only way to obtain a new flange is to order an entirely new driveshaft.

After all the repairs were complete, we test drove the vehicle. Now their BMW drives very nice now.

For more information on how to get your BMW in the shop for some service, or maintenance, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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Throttle Body Solution Early Audi V8

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Throttle Body Solution for a Early Audi 4.2L V8

Our 2000 Audi A6 4.2L V8 loaner car had a throttle body (TB) fail on it a few weeks ago and we needed a Throttle Body Solution.For the life of us, we could not find a ne, let alone a used unit. After searching the internet on and off for days end, we finally found a compatible throttle body. Apparently the Porsche 986 996 997 & GT3  uses the exact same 75mm housing. This is Part Number: 997 Same bolt pattern and casting for a 4.2L V8 – 2000 Audi A6. It’s also the same throttle body for a 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2003 Audi A8.

Harness Pin Diagram Throttle Body

 

Harness Pin Outs

The only a few slight differences that we found. Our throttle body and the Porsche TB both have 6 pin connectors. Although, the Audi pins are an even 6 pin pattern and the Porsches are an offset 6 pin pattern. This makes the connectors non-interchangeable. Also the pin outs are different. They are not a 1 to 1 pin out. As a result, I had to build a pigtail to plug directly into our harness. I could have repinned the OE harness with a different connector, but that was more work. After finding this out, I pulled the wiring diagrams from both vehicles and the schematics for the internal units are exactly the same. The wires got to different pin numbers. The wiring diagram for the pigtail  is shown below.

Connectors

As noted above the connectors are completely different, with a different patterns. The 75mm Porsche 911 throttle body uses this part found on Amazon. There is no part number that would could find in the Porsche parts catalog. But this part fitd perfect. For the Audi side of the pigtail, we purchased this kit, also on Amazon. We only needed the male part of this, but found it less expensive to purchase both sides. The other side can be saved for another project or ‘just in case’ situation.

Part Numbers

There are a few different 75mm Porsche throttle body part numbers that can be referenced. VW, Porsche and Bosch use different part numbers, however they all are the same part. The Porsche number, seen in the photo, is 997 605 115 01 / 99760511501. The Bosch part number 0 280 750 474 / 0280750474. The VW part number is 002 133 062 AJ / 022133062AJ, although no VW pr Audis that we know of uses this part. Porsche is owned by VW so naturally they put a VW part number on there. Fairly common throughout the history of VW, Audi and Porsche partnerships.

This throttle body bolts directly onto a stock 2000 Audi A6 and 2000-2003 A8s intake manifolds. With a custom built pigtail harness, will plug directly into the harness for the stock part number which was 077 133 062 / 077133062. This part number is NLA and is impossible to find new or used.

Performance Throttle Body Solution

Another thing that we noticed, the 2001 and up V8 Audis have a smaller throttle body plenum. This is either 65mm or 70mm. Unfortunately we ordered three different throttle bodies, and found this out the hard way. Furthermore, the bolt pattern on these is different. The inside plenum is also too small and would drastically reduced performance on our 2000 Audi A6 – if it happened to fit the bolt pattern, which they did not.

The part numbers that do not fit are the following: Bosch 0 280 750 487 / 0280750487 – Audi: 079 133 062 C / 079133062C. However, if you have a 2001 A6 / S6, A8 / S8, etc., with a smaller throttle body, this would be a great performance upgrade. We found a few companies online that sell the manifold and throttle body kits to install on a later model. You also might be able to hone out your stock manifold to open up to a 75mm opening. Although, you would need a adapter plate as the bolt pattern is slightly different.

Audi Connector
Porsche Connector
Pigtail

For more information on how to get your Audi A6, 4.2L V8 Audi or any vehicles listed above, in the shop for service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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NASFT Mercedes Benz TRP D1 Work Around

Mercedes Benz TRP Order Form

If you are a NASFT shop and need to fill out a Mercedes-Benz TRP D1 Form, there is a work around to get this to work. What happens is when entering a VIN it will give you a note that pops up. It will say “More information for Mercedes Benz. It looks like this:

After that, if you attempt to enter the zip code from the dealership you are trying to submit your Mercedes Benz TRP D1 Form, you may see this error come up. You will not be able to choose a dealer. Anything you try, it will not populate a dealer. Those errors will look like this:

Top Right Screen Error
Error on the Dealer ZIP Code

The only work around, that NASFT does not tell you is to enter a VIN that is less that a few years old. You can also use a previous VIN that has worked in the past. This will allow you to choose the dealer you are submitting your Mercedes Benz TRP D1 form to.

Once that dealer is selected, you can now change the VIN back to the one you are submitting. Personally, I did not click on the ‘Decode’ button and made sure all of the info in the vehicle selection boxes were the same. It may still populate ok, I didn’t want to have to go though this all again if it didn’t work.

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Aftermarket Auto Warranties – Why They Are A Scam

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From time to time customers ask us if we accept Aftermarket Auto Warranties for their vehicle.  Unfortunately, we do not work with these companies. We use to work with them quite a bit. However, over the years, these companies have been difficult to work with.  Here is a comprehensive guide on all the ins and outs on how these companies work, what to expect and what you need to know when planning on purchasing one.

What are Aftermarket Auto Warranties?

The first question you might be asking is, what are Aftermarket Auto Warranties? When purchasing a used car from either the dealership or used car lot, they may offer you a warranty for an additional fee. Most used cars are ‘As Is’ with no warranty. This is where these warranties comes in.  Sometimes dealerships such as Mercedes-Benz, BMW, or Audi will sell certified pre-owned vehicles. If they are still within the factory warranty timeline, they will still retain a factory warranty. If they are out of that factory warranty they defer to an aftermarket. So, please make perfectly clear with your sales rap, before purchasing a used vehicle.

Companies, such as CarMax, use a third party company called Assurance. Other dealers use different companies as well. The reason being, they would have to classify their businesses as an insurance company which separates the two entities. For example, other third party Aftermarket Auto Warranty companies are Complete Car Warranty, and Concord Auto Protect, just to name a few. Even the commercials you see on T.V., with Ice-Cube promoting CarSheild uses a third party entity. This is a completely different entity called American Auto Shield.

The aftermarket warranties are not the same as manufacturer’s warranty. They are third party, private companies that are in business to be profitable. America’s free market dictates that they can conduct business to be profitable, which we fully support. However, the way in which they conduct business is questionable at best. They are in business to pay the least amount possible, so they can be as profitable. This rolls in into our next topic.

How Aftermarket Auto Warranties are Presented & Sold

Some dealership that sell these, use tactics that are borderline fraudulent. A sales rep may tell customer that you are buying the “The Best” or “The Platinum” policy. They may say that it covers everything. This is often not the case. These plans have many options. Some include, ‘Internal Engine Only’, ‘Engine & Drivetrain’, and/or Fully Vehicle Coverage’ plans. Each company has their own legal terms and agreements, so these will all vary. The better the plan, the more they cost. Rarely, some plans also include maintenance plans. These cover oil changes, flushes and wear items such as belts, Bushings, and timing chains . Make sure you know exactly what you are purchasing before you agree to pay. Most premium warranties are around $3000-$4000 depending on coverage.

For Example

One of our Meister Werks employees recently purchased a used Mercedes. The sales rep tried to sell them one of these plans. It was almost $8,000 on top of the vehicle cost. They declined it, but it was insanely expensive. Most of the time the sales rep will markup the price on the warranty and will take the rest of the money for themselves. So, if you decide to purchase one, don’t pay too much.

It is our opinion (and much less money) to open a savings account and have $50-100 transferred to that account every two weeks. IF you can find a savings account that compounds interest, you will actually make money on your deposits. If you deposit $100 every two months, in a year, you will have around $2600. This is the average yearly cost to maintain and repair a standard European vehicle. If you don’t need to use the money, just let it keep growing. A used car will eventually need a large repair.

Keep reading and we’ll explain why this is a better option.

Your car breaks down & it’s time to use the warranty…

If you have purchased a warranty and your car just broken down. Here is how it all works.

  1. Firstly – The Breakdown

    You bring your car in and the repair facility diagnoses the problem.

  2. Secondly – Diagnostics

    The shop will write a quote based off the findings.

  3. Thirdly – How it really works

    The repair shop contacts the warranty company, typically on a 1-800 number. Some companies use a website, which is much easier and faster. Here is what happens:

    1. How Our Last Warranty Went

      I personally did for a customer, I was on the phone for 2-1/2 hours, most of this was waiting on hold. I had to give them every minor detail about the diagnostics, methods, and techniques on how we found the problems. Which is fine, and I understand why. However, this also included submitting very detailed photos of the leaks, VIN number and odometer reading. THEN, we had to call them back after these were submitted. When I got another rep on the phone, they told us why they were not going to pay the claim. The main reason was because we could not show them a leak that was deep inside the engine. As you know, most modern engines can be impossible to see where leaks are coming from. Furthermore, if we take the engine apart – we are not guaranteed and kind of approval from the warranty company or the customer. For which, we may not get paid for the service we just provided.

    2. Approval & Labor Rates

      The items they did approve, were based off a Meister Werks old hourly rate that was posted on some obscure website. This was posted over 6 years ago. On top of that, they said, if they were going to pay our currently hourly rate which was 25% less. Also, they said if they were to pay that out, ‘WE’ would have to call the questionable website and have them to change our hourly rate. This was absolutely absurde.

    3. Labor Times Pricing Payouts

      The labor times most repair facilities use are list by the manufacturer via special software. Many labor times do not include other procedures to access the part or remove components. These warranty companies do not read though the instructions and will just pull the labor time for that listing. Most of the time, these instructions list prerequisites before starting the actual repair. For example, to replace the turbo oil lines on a 2013 Mercedes C240, the instructions say First – remove drive belt. Then – remove alternator. This was an additional 1.75 hours for both. This labor time is not included in the repair of the turbo oil lines, which was listed at 0.6 hours. This give us no choice but to either eat the labor time or charge the customer the additional labor time to perform this repair. Almost every warranty job we performed required us to charge additional fees to the customer to make up for labor time that the warranty company would not pay for.

    4. Part Numbers

      To add to the insane policies of this company, they had to have every Mercedes part number, even though some of the parts were OES from the OE manufacturer. Such as Bosch, Hella, Continental, and Bilstein, just to name a few. These parts do not necessarily use the same part numbers as the manufacturer. Nevertheless, we still had to look up every single part number.

    5. How They Get Part Pricing

      The warranty company will only pay the list price. The adjuster said he was basing this off internet pricing and was actively looking for prices online. Furthermore, the prices were the cheapest aftermarket parts he could find. This is another reason we stopped doing warranty work. The prices they are finding are sometime less than what we buy the parts from wholesale and the lowest grade possible.

  4. Fourth – The Catch

    After the warranty company has complied all the parts needed, they will check all the labor times.Labor times are all based off what the industry calls ‘Book Time’. The problem with book time is it sometimes does not include all the information to complete certain repairs. For the example on the repair we were performing, we had to replace all of the turbo line seals. The book time to complete this was 2.1 hours. However to access this area, we had to remove the alternator. The book time on the alternator was 1.6 hours. These times are never calculated together and the warranty company do not read the instructions. If there are any additional times that need added, they will not do this and only cover the actual book time repair.

  5. Last – Customer Still Pays

    This leaves customer to pay for the additional work to complete the repair that should be included, but is not. In order try and get them to pay, we would have to argue with the adjuster and tell them how the repair is completed. Most of the time they believe they know more than us and will still not pay. This is just another reason why we do not do warranty work. The customer always had to pay for something and the companies would only pay a fraction of what they should.

In Conclusion

We will do Aftermarket Auto Warranties repair work under these circumstances. The customer pays everything up front, then has to submit the invoice to the warranty company after the repair are complete. We will not call these companies or get approvals. This will be the obligation of the customer and to find out if they can do this with their policy. This is so we do not have to charge the customer for additional paperwork. Also, this is so we do not have to tell the customer that it is not approved on their plan. If there are any disputes, we do not want to be the ‘Bad Guy’ telling you that they will not cover the work. Most of the time they will not cover everything and/or will not pay the hourly rate it takes to complete the job correctly. Not every company does it the same way so you will have to contact them and ask if you may submit the invoice after the work is completed.

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1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion

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1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion

The other day we started on a 3d printing project for a customer’s 1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion. One of the customer’s radiator cooling fans stopped working and the engine started to overheat. The fan assembly from Jaguar were quoted between $1100 and $1400 (for 2 fans and the shroud) We told the customer that there was a second option. The other option was to convert the fans over to brushless slimline style cooling fans.

The Process

I took about 20 measurements and traced the mounting holes. Then I scanned the tracings on my flatbed scanner. After that, I digitized the files and imported them into Fusion 360. After a few hours, the CAD files were done and it was ready to print. I stayed up until about 3am, making sure the first bracket was printing ok. It wasn’t. Some of the settings needed tweaked. I changed the settings and hit print again, praying that when I woke up the print would be good.

When I woke up 3 hours later the print was almost done and looked really nice. When that was done I removed it from the build plate. Then, I hit print again. I went into the shop to start modifying the shroud.

One of my techs ended up taking the motor apart and we extracted the OEM harness connectors. I wired and loomed that electrical connector to the fan harness. Furthermore, this made for a really nice, cohesive OEM looking connection.

Fitment

This bracket will fit the following Jaguars:

  • Vanden Plas – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003
  • XJ6 – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, & 1997
  • XJ8 – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003
  • XJR – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003

How was it made?

The XJR Cooling Fan Conversion is printed on a highly modified AnyCubic Kobra Max 3d printer with Priline Polycarbonate CF. For example, here are the A-Z photos of how it was done, and how it all turned out.

Gallery

Front – Fans and shroud disassembled
Rear – Fans and shroud disassembled
Bolt pattern on the back of the fan shroud.
Measurements, tracings and templates we made of the shroud and fan motor mounts.
2d Digitizing the measurements, tracings and templates.
Drafting the digitized measurements, tracings and templates.
Bottom Angle
Final CAD Drawings Rendered
Minor modification of the slimline fans. Left side is modified.
Another shot of the minor modification of the slimline fans.. Left side is modified.
Printed bracket mocked up for some minor trimming.
Marks for trimming shroud for fitting the bracket.
How we clearanced the shroud for the bracket.
One last modification. This had a piece sticking up about 3/4″ / 20mm that has to be removed.
XJR Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber
Fitting the brackets, both sides
Mounting the fans.
Fans installed. Hindsight, I should have wired the plugs first.
Install – Back side
Quarter shot of the fans installed
OEM fan connectors wired and loomed
Upper fan close up of the OEM fan connector.
Lower fan close up of the OEM fan connector.
Another lower fan shot.
One last upper fan connector close up.
Front side – Complete
Ready for install
Rear – Ready for install
Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber – Jaguar XJR Radiator Fans
Front side shot – ready for install
JAguar XJR Functional Application
Upper shot installed with much more room to service belts, etc.

Question / Contact Meister Werks

For more information on how to get your XJR Cooling Fan Conversion installed, please call 425-254-0627. You can also contact us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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