From time to time customers ask us if we accept Aftermarket Auto Warranties for their vehicle.  Unfortunately, we do not work with these companies. We use to work with them quite a bit. However, over the years, these companies have been difficult to work with.  Here is a comprehensive guide on all the ins and outs on how these companies work, what to expect and what you need to know when planning on purchasing one.

What are Aftermarket Auto Warranties?

The first question you might be asking is, what are Aftermarket Auto Warranties? When purchasing a used car from either the dealership or used car lot, they may offer you a warranty for an additional fee. Most used cars are ‘As Is’ with no warranty. This is where these warranties comes in.  Sometimes dealerships such as Mercedes-Benz, BMW, or Audi will sell certified pre-owned vehicles. If they are still within the factory warranty timeline, they will still retain a factory warranty. If they are out of that factory warranty they defer to an aftermarket. So, please make perfectly clear with your sales rap, before purchasing a used vehicle.

Companies, such as CarMax, use a third party company called Assurance. Other dealers use different companies as well. The reason being, they would have to classify their businesses as an insurance company which separates the two entities. For example, other third party Aftermarket Auto Warranty companies are Complete Car Warranty, and Concord Auto Protect, just to name a few. Even the commercials you see on T.V., with Ice-Cube promoting CarSheild uses a third party entity. This is a completely different entity called American Auto Shield.

The aftermarket warranties are not the same as manufacturer’s warranty. They are third party, private companies that are in business to be profitable. America’s free market dictates that they can conduct business to be profitable, which we fully support. However, the way in which they conduct business is questionable at best. They are in business to pay the least amount possible, so they can be as profitable. This rolls in into our next topic.

How Aftermarket Auto Warranties are Presented & Sold

Some dealership that sell these, use tactics that are borderline fraudulent. A sales rep may tell customer that you are buying the “The Best” or “The Platinum” policy. They may say that it covers everything. This is often not the case. These plans have many options. Some include, ‘Internal Engine Only’, ‘Engine & Drivetrain’, and/or Fully Vehicle Coverage’ plans. Each company has their own legal terms and agreements, so these will all vary. The better the plan, the more they cost. Rarely, some plans also include maintenance plans. These cover oil changes, flushes and wear items such as belts, Bushings, and timing chains . Make sure you know exactly what you are purchasing before you agree to pay. Most premium warranties are around $3000-$4000 depending on coverage.

For Example

One of our Meister Werks employees recently purchased a used Mercedes. The sales rep tried to sell them one of these plans. It was almost $8,000 on top of the vehicle cost. They declined it, but it was insanely expensive. Most of the time the sales rep will markup the price on the warranty and will take the rest of the money for themselves. So, if you decide to purchase one, don’t pay too much.

It is our opinion (and much less money) to open a savings account and have $50-100 transferred to that account every two weeks. IF you can find a savings account that compounds interest, you will actually make money on your deposits. If you deposit $100 every two months, in a year, you will have around $2600. This is the average yearly cost to maintain and repair a standard European vehicle. If you don’t need to use the money, just let it keep growing. A used car will eventually need a large repair.

Keep reading and we’ll explain why this is a better option.

Your car breaks down & it’s time to use the warranty…

If you have purchased a warranty and your car just broken down. Here is how it all works.

  1. Firstly – The Breakdown

    You bring your car in and the repair facility diagnoses the problem.

  2. Secondly – Diagnostics

    The shop will write a quote based off the findings.

  3. Thirdly – How it really works

    The repair shop contacts the warranty company, typically on a 1-800 number. Some companies use a website, which is much easier and faster. Here is what happens:

    1. How Our Last Warranty Went

      I personally did for a customer, I was on the phone for 2-1/2 hours, most of this was waiting on hold. I had to give them every minor detail about the diagnostics, methods, and techniques on how we found the problems. Which is fine, and I understand why. However, this also included submitting very detailed photos of the leaks, VIN number and odometer reading. THEN, we had to call them back after these were submitted. When I got another rep on the phone, they told us why they were not going to pay the claim. The main reason was because we could not show them a leak that was deep inside the engine. As you know, most modern engines can be impossible to see where leaks are coming from. Furthermore, if we take the engine apart – we are not guaranteed and kind of approval from the warranty company or the customer. For which, we may not get paid for the service we just provided.

    2. Approval & Labor Rates

      The items they did approve, were based off a Meister Werks old hourly rate that was posted on some obscure website. This was posted over 6 years ago. On top of that, they said, if they were going to pay our currently hourly rate which was 25% less. Also, they said if they were to pay that out, ‘WE’ would have to call the questionable website and have them to change our hourly rate. This was absolutely absurde.

    3. Labor Times Pricing Payouts

      The labor times most repair facilities use are list by the manufacturer via special software. Many labor times do not include other procedures to access the part or remove components. These warranty companies do not read though the instructions and will just pull the labor time for that listing. Most of the time, these instructions list prerequisites before starting the actual repair. For example, to replace the turbo oil lines on a 2013 Mercedes C240, the instructions say First – remove drive belt. Then – remove alternator. This was an additional 1.75 hours for both. This labor time is not included in the repair of the turbo oil lines, which was listed at 0.6 hours. This give us no choice but to either eat the labor time or charge the customer the additional labor time to perform this repair. Almost every warranty job we performed required us to charge additional fees to the customer to make up for labor time that the warranty company would not pay for.

    4. Part Numbers

      To add to the insane policies of this company, they had to have every Mercedes part number, even though some of the parts were OES from the OE manufacturer. Such as Bosch, Hella, Continental, and Bilstein, just to name a few. These parts do not necessarily use the same part numbers as the manufacturer. Nevertheless, we still had to look up every single part number.

    5. How They Get Part Pricing

      The warranty company will only pay the list price. The adjuster said he was basing this off internet pricing and was actively looking for prices online. Furthermore, the prices were the cheapest aftermarket parts he could find. This is another reason we stopped doing warranty work. The prices they are finding are sometime less than what we buy the parts from wholesale and the lowest grade possible.

  4. Fourth – The Catch

    After the warranty company has complied all the parts needed, they will check all the labor times.Labor times are all based off what the industry calls ‘Book Time’. The problem with book time is it sometimes does not include all the information to complete certain repairs. For the example on the repair we were performing, we had to replace all of the turbo line seals. The book time to complete this was 2.1 hours. However to access this area, we had to remove the alternator. The book time on the alternator was 1.6 hours. These times are never calculated together and the warranty company do not read the instructions. If there are any additional times that need added, they will not do this and only cover the actual book time repair.

  5. Last – Customer Still Pays

    This leaves customer to pay for the additional work to complete the repair that should be included, but is not. In order try and get them to pay, we would have to argue with the adjuster and tell them how the repair is completed. Most of the time they believe they know more than us and will still not pay. This is just another reason why we do not do warranty work. The customer always had to pay for something and the companies would only pay a fraction of what they should.

In Conclusion

We will do Aftermarket Auto Warranties repair work under these circumstances. The customer pays everything up front, then has to submit the invoice to the warranty company after the repair are complete. We will not call these companies or get approvals. This will be the obligation of the customer and to find out if they can do this with their policy. This is so we do not have to charge the customer for additional paperwork. Also, this is so we do not have to tell the customer that it is not approved on their plan. If there are any disputes, we do not want to be the ‘Bad Guy’ telling you that they will not cover the work. Most of the time they will not cover everything and/or will not pay the hourly rate it takes to complete the job correctly. Not every company does it the same way so you will have to contact them and ask if you may submit the invoice after the work is completed.

What is a Mercedes Service A & Service B?

Mercedes Service A and Service B are essential maintenance services. These services keep your Mercedes-Benz in optimal condition. A & B Services typically includes an oil change, fluid level checks and corrections, tire inspection and rotation, brake inspection, and a thorough overall inspection of the vehicle. On the other hand, Service B covers a more comprehensive range of services, including all the items in Service A, as well as cabin dust and combination filter replacement, brake fluid exchange, and more extensive checks and maintenance.

When you have these services performed at Meister Werks, it offers several benefits. Meister Werks European specializes in European car maintenance, including Mercedes-Benz vehicles. Our highly trained German technicians have the experiences you count on for your Mercedes. Specifically servicing, maintaining, and repairing Mercedes vehicles. This ensures that your car is in capable hands.

Moreover, at Meister Werks European, you can expect top-quality customer service and personalized attention to detail. The technicians understand the specific needs of Mercedes vehicles. We use genuine OEM and OES parts. This will ensure that your car receives the best care possible. Additionally, when we perform your A and B Services, you will be confident that your car’s warranty will not be compromised.

Dealer Level Service at a Affordable Price

The dealership alternative service we offer are often more cost-effective than the same service that the Mercedes-Benz dealership offer. Despite the lower cost, you can trust that the quality of service provided is on par with the dealership. With access to advanced diagnostic equipment and specialized tools, Meister Werks European can ensure efficient and accurate servicing of your Mercedes vehicle.

Furthermore, choosing a specialized facility like Meister Werks is important. Your vehicle will be always be given the attention that it deserves. The technicians are well-versed in the intricacies of Mercedes vehicles. We will detect and address any potential issues before they turn into costly problems. By having your A or B Services performed at Meister Werks, you’re investing in the long-term investment for your Mercedes-Benz.

In conclusion, getting your Mercedes Service A and Service B done at Meister Werks European in Renton, WA, is a wise choice. With their expertise, attention to detail, cost-effectiveness, and dedication to customer satisfaction, you can be confident that your vehicle will receive the best possible care, ensuring its longevity and optimal performance.

Contact us

For more information on how to get your XXX, please call 425-254-0627. You can also email us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

Powder Coating Oven Build

This was a powder coating oven I built in 2010, 5 years before moving into our current location. This is a step by step sequence on how I built a commercial powder coating oven. Most of the high temp wiring was removed from a donor Kenmore oven range. I attempted to use the controller from that oven, but it burnt out right away. Scroll though the photos to see the progression.

Staring the Build

I started with a 4′ x 3′ base and lots of custom cut 22 gauge cold roll steel. The inside was 6ft tall

Used Harbor Freight casters. I thought these were cool because they were rollerblade style wheels, clear and different than all the other casters they had in stock. I need to be able to move my oven around when I move into another shop.

6′ uprights & the frame top on.

 

Skinning the Oven

Starting on the skins. I used hot rolled steel, which was not galvanized. I should have used galvanized because over time, the steel started rusting. See photo of that below. The mild hot rolled steel was much cheaper, and since I was on a really low budget at the time, I couldn’t really afford the galvanized. Stainless steel is what most commercial ovens have, however the cost

Brace for the control box

Door frame corners with 90º bends to keep the seams cleaner. Wire tied the corners to pull everything into plumb.

All the braces in. Ready to start on insulating and skinning the outside.

Last of the sheet metal picked up at Ballard Sheet Metal Works. Custom made door, inside door panel and back panel. Had to use 20 gauge for the back, and doors due to the larger size. Wasn’t that much more, but the 22 gauge did cut down on the weight. Eurovans also make great sheet metal haulers too.

Insulating the Oven

All insulated with barriers on all the studs and high temp tape. The R12 home insulation is not technically rated for oven use, The critical temperature of R12 insulation is rated at 600ºf, which is well below the 400º temperatures the oven reaches. I never had any issues with this, but I highly suggest using the correct insulation if it’s in your budget. The correct insulation that should be used is Rockwool or Kaowool. This high temp insulation is much more expensive, yet is UL listed and has a critical temperature of around 2000º-2400º.

More Skins

Outer skins going on, 22 gauge hot rolled steel.

More skins + controller, which will be replaced by a different controller soon.

 

Wiring

Wiring up the oven with high temp wires from the donor oven. I used conduit so I could run some no-heat rated wiring.

Next, I installed the interior light. Note the rust starting to take place.

Access hole for the burners. This made it much easier to replace the burners.  When I installed 4 J boxes, I used a hole saw to cut a large enough opening in the back to access the burners. Furthermore, two set screws were used to secure the burners in place inside the oven. See the next photos for that.

11,000 watts of burner power finally installed.

Building the Door

Cutting the metal for the inside of the doors. Wish I had a brake press / metal shear when I was doing this.

Structural supports for the window getting fabbed up.

Doors being assembled. Used the donor kitchen range window. Just make sure you mark the inside before installing. I forgot to do that and installed the outside on the inside. Over time, the window became foggy and had to replace it.

Door is finished. Time to mount it to the oven.

Door all mounted. I used the donor Kenmore oven door handle

Door hung with 6ft piano / continuous steel hinge. Latches to keep all the warm inside. I also used a 5th caster wheel to support the door weight (not in photos). Even though the hinge was sturdy, there was some sag after mounting. You can see in some of the last photos at the very bottom, with the wheel installed on the lower right side of the oven door.

 

High temp seal going on. I used a wood oven door seal. I used high temp caulk to affix it in these photos, however they quickly began to fall off, so I used sheet metal screws later to keep it in place.

Everything works so far

Finishing it up

Racks all bolted in. Generic hardware store metal racks and 3ft x 4ft grid wall panels. you can use anything, but I suggest getting chrome or bare metal. These were powder coated and over time started to chip and flake off. So don’t use anything with powder coating on them or it will ruin your projects over time. Also I sprayed the inside with high temp POR15 to keep the rust at bay. If you use mild steel, you should paint all those surfaces with high temp oven paint prior to using the oven.

Ready for powder coating. Our first, small kitchen range oven on the right.

Controller #2 came in the mail, had to do some minor rewiring for the new box, & live test #1. The exterior never got above 90º even when the oven was on for hours. So the insulation I used worked pretty well, even though it wasn’t rated for it. I still suggest using the proper insulation.

 

First sets of Centric and BBS wheel faces getting coated.

The key to getting high quality powder coating is the gun and a proper filtered spray booth. Furthermore, we were having contamination issues. Despite keeping everything very clean , we still had issues. Afterwards, we had much higher results with quality once we moved into our commercial location. We started using a proper spray booth and gun, and using this oven. That alone, was a night and day difference in the quality we were producing. In conclusion, this oven build was a massive success.

T4.5 Eurovan Coolant Bottle Bracket Adapter

We had to make a custom adapter for a T4.5 Eurovan Coolant Bottle Bracket Adapter the other day. We needed a new coolant reservoir for our customer’s 2001 Volkswagen Eurovan VR6 MV. The warehouse sent me the wrong reservoir (Ver C, and not a Ver E). (701 121 407 E). The Ver C is for 1999-2000 Eurovans with a 12v VR6 engine, however all the connections and hoses are the same. It’s just 180º off from the one we needed. Apparently the Ver E coolant reservoirs are no longer available (NLA) and virtually impossible to find. We searched Classic VW parts, eBay and other sites and came up with zero results. Ver C is still available, however it is also hard to find, but they are available special ordered new from Europe. If you need a Ver C reservoir, we can get one for you.

Instead of wasting time trying to find a new one, or installing a used part, we drafted a file in Fusion 360. Then we 3d printed this bracket. Printed with PA12-CF Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber (25%CF/75%Poly). The bracket is safe up to 220c / 428ºF. This will adapts the older C style bottles with the overflow return on the left / drivers side. These other tanks are readily available. Furthermore, this will fit so the left / drivers side electrical connection (coolant level sensor) fits the configuration for Eurovans with the Ver E bottles. Fits 2001+ T4.5 Eurovan / Transporter / Caravelle – 24v Engines, with the bottle that mounts to the core support. We also installed some brass inserts so we can just bolt it right in and the tank can be replaced it in the future, if need be.

Version 2.0

We revised our design a little to make it both easier to print and use less material. It’s just as strong as Ver 1.0.

 

More Info

For more information on how to get your Volkswagen Eurovan Repaired, please call 425-254-0627. You can also email us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

Purchase

If you would like to purchase one of these. You can do so by clicking the link below. These are made to order, so the turn time on these is approx 3-5 days to ship + shipping time.

Click Here to go to the shop site.

 

DIY Cobra 8 Channel Surveillance System – Upgrade to a 8tb Hard Drive

• Purchase a Sata hard drive for your Cobra 8 Channel Surveillance System. We got an 8gb external from Amazon for $140 w/ free Prime delivery
• After receiving the HD, format to MS Dos Fat 32. (You may not have to if it is already formatted for this. Most external HD are)
• Remove new hard drive from case.
• Power down Cobra 8 Channel Surveillance System and unplug power cord after the prompt on the screen says to do so.
• Remove old hard drive from Cobra 8 Channel Surveillance System.
• Install new hard drive into Cobra 8 Channel Surveillance System.
• Plug in power cord.
• Screen will prompt “HD Not Formatted”.
• Open the Settings Menu > Device. Select the new hard drive.• Click the format button.
• Now you have storage for 8 months of recordings with 4 cameras or 4 months with 8 cameras.