While one of our longtime VW R32 customers was in for repairs, we performed a headlight lens refurbishing.

Headlight Refurbishing

The Process

His R32 was in for a water pump, thermostat, coolant bypass pipe (crack pipe), and power steering pump. We also performed regular maintenance. First, we start by removing the headlights from his VW. Next, we wet sand the entire lens. We use 330 grit sandpaper, which removes oxidation, pits, nicks and blemishes. Thirdly, we move on to 400, 600, and 1200 grit sandpaper. Now that headlight is extremely smooth, we appy our headlight len refurbishing treatment.

Headlight Lens Refurbishing

We use a new way to clean headlights. It’s different! We don’t polish. Also, we skip the clear coat. We remove the yellow haze, then add a special treatment. This takes only five minutes per light. Now, the R32’s headlights look brand new! To keep them safe from Seattle weather for a year, we add a thin layer of nano ceramic coating.

As you can see, the lights look almost like new. We can’t make them 100% perfect. There are small flaws inside the light housing. But, cleaning your headlights is much cheaper than buying new ones. New Mk4 R32 headlights cost over $600 for a pair, plus the cost to put them in.

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A few years back, we did a custom install on this 1990 Mercedes-Benz 500SL air suspension project. We custom designed the air suspension kit. We also all powder coated and installed everything in house, here at Meister Werks. We also installed a kit in this customer’s 1991 Mercedes-Benz 560SEC, click here to see that project.

Project 1990 Mercedes-Benz 500SL Build List

  • Airlift Performance 3p management
  • OB2 dual air compressors
  • 4 Gallon Specialty Suspension seamless air tank – Powder Coated Cardnal Red RD01 in house
  • Custom trunk and upholstery bt Meister Werks
  • Front are rear air bags brackets custom designed by Meister Werks
  • Front and Rear – Universal Air – Air House “Mini” Air Bags (Custom Made for Meister Werks)
  • Air suspension powder coated, assembled and install by Meister Werks
  • Bilstein B6 shocks and struts
  • MAE Crown Jewel wheels lips & barrels w/ Spacer by Simply Spacers

 

Last week we designed and made a  1972 BMW 2002 Center Console for one of our customers. Our customer brought his 2002 in over a year ago to do some restoration work. This was one of the items on his list that he wanted, among many other items.

There are a few companies online that sell center console kits. However, most of them have 52mm gauge pods built in, or you have to buy multiple kits to get what you want. In this instance we designed to draft up our concept in Fusion 360 CAD and make it ourselves. We drafted up the basic profile of the sides. Then we 3d printed the sides, and test fit to make sure the fit was proper under the dash. After that we 3d printed drafts of the center sections. The first prints were about 15mm narrow on either side and did not allow us to put it under the dash.

After knowing the exact size, we changed a few features on the design. For example, we changed the cup holders from swuare to round. We did not like they was they looked and they did work correctly on the first draft. After finalizing our design, we started printing our final prints. We ended up using about 3kg or around 6.6lbs of filament with the drafts and final production pieces. Don’t mind the red size panel, I ran out of black filament. It will get covered up later, so I doesn’t really matter too much.

After the final parts were finished printing, we installed brass wood inserts into the plastic.  We use a torch to get the brass inserts hot, then screwed them in. If we didn’t get them hot first, the PETG plastic we use to print this would have cracked. PETG is a very strong plastic that is weather and UV safe. Similar to ABS, but easier to print than ABS but much stronger. Most people use PLA on there 3d printers. PLA breaks down overtime, is not UV, and will absorb moisture. PETG is more difficult to print than PLS and it requires a hotter temperature to extrude from the nozzle. We use special diamond tip nozzles and had to customize and modify our 3d printer. We do this in order for us get better quality prints off our printer.

Once the brass insert were installed we dry fit the parts together to make sure everything fit properly. Once we verified the fitment, we started wrapping the parts with marine grade vinyl upholstery . This material looks exactly like leather, and gives the piece a more vintage look and feel.

Once we installed all of the faux leather (pleather) on this BMW 2002 Center Console, we installed felt on the circumference of the cup holder inserts and rear tray. We also put felt around the outside of the cup holders and tray inserts to make sure there were no rattles. (not in photos) This also help press fit them into place, although, they can still be removed for cleaning purposes.

One other thing we noticed after the dry fit, the hazard button harness does not fit. We are also 3d printing a connector so we can elongate the harness and allow us to plug in the switch in the lower location. In hind sight, we should have put the switch up top, however we did not want the radio to be and knuckle height when shifting the BMW. I personally have owned vintage vehicles that had the radio directly infront of the shifter and always found myself touching the buttons when shifting into reverse, first, third and fifth gears. So having the button in this location, recessed, was probable a better decision.

 

For more information on how to get your European classic car in the shop for some service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

Differential Pinion Flange Repair – BMW F Body

The other day our new customer brought their BMW 528i xDrive to us and were able to perform a Differential Pinion Flange Repair. To back up a little, our customer had their BMW at the dealership about 5 days ago and were already having issues days after picking it up. For example, the issues included a heavy knocking check engine light, driveshaft flex joint (guibo) issue, thermostat faults, and a number of other problems.

Repairs

We were about to diagnose the thermostat, knocking faults, and other issues. The only thing we’ll say is, use a torque wrench at 19 Ft Lbs / 26nm is necessary when replacing spark plugs. For the flex joints the dealership did tell them that the front and rear joints needed replaced. We removed the exhaust, then the driveshaft flex joints, and last the driveshaft supports. We then noticed that the differential input flange was the cause of the guibo failure. As you can see from the video below, there was an obvious issue.


 

Firstly, we removed the Differential Pinion Flange 48mm nut, buffer seal, and rubber washer. Secondly, we pulled the repair kit that we keep in stock. The BMW Part No. is 33127607158 / 33 12 7 607 158. Additionally, this is in the BMW part catalog as “Differential Cover Repair Kit – BMW (33-12-7-607-158)”. The full install guide is located here.

Notes:

  • Read this entire guide in the link above. You MUST NOT move the larger 12pt nut on the differential or serious damage may occur to the differential.
  • The only way to obtain a new flange is to order an entirely new driveshaft.

After all the repairs were complete, we test drove the vehicle. Now their BMW drives very nice now.

For more information on how to get your BMW in the shop for some service, or maintenance, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

Throttle Body Solution for a Early Audi 4.2L V8

Our 2000 Audi A6 4.2L V8 loaner car had a throttle body (TB) fail on it a few weeks ago and we needed a Throttle Body Solution.For the life of us, we could not find a ne, let alone a used unit. After searching the internet on and off for days end, we finally found a compatible throttle body. Apparently the Porsche 986 996 997 & GT3  uses the exact same 75mm housing. This is Part Number: 997 Same bolt pattern and casting for a 4.2L V8 – 2000 Audi A6. It’s also the same throttle body for a 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2003 Audi A8.

Harness Pin Diagram Throttle Body

 

Harness Pin Outs

The only a few slight differences that we found. Our throttle body and the Porsche TB both have 6 pin connectors. Although, the Audi pins are an even 6 pin pattern and the Porsches are an offset 6 pin pattern. This makes the connectors non-interchangeable. Also the pin outs are different. They are not a 1 to 1 pin out. As a result, I had to build a pigtail to plug directly into our harness. I could have repinned the OE harness with a different connector, but that was more work. After finding this out, I pulled the wiring diagrams from both vehicles and the schematics for the internal units are exactly the same. The wires got to different pin numbers. The wiring diagram for the pigtail  is shown below.

Connectors

As noted above the connectors are completely different, with a different patterns. The 75mm Porsche 911 throttle body uses this part found on Amazon. There is no part number that would could find in the Porsche parts catalog. But this part fitd perfect. For the Audi side of the pigtail, we purchased this kit, also on Amazon. We only needed the male part of this, but found it less expensive to purchase both sides. The other side can be saved for another project or ‘just in case’ situation.

Part Numbers

There are a few different 75mm Porsche throttle body part numbers that can be referenced. VW, Porsche and Bosch use different part numbers, however they all are the same part. The Porsche number, seen in the photo, is 997 605 115 01 / 99760511501. The Bosch part number 0 280 750 474 / 0280750474. The VW part number is 002 133 062 AJ / 022133062AJ, although no VW pr Audis that we know of uses this part. Porsche is owned by VW so naturally they put a VW part number on there. Fairly common throughout the history of VW, Audi and Porsche partnerships.

This throttle body bolts directly onto a stock 2000 Audi A6 and 2000-2003 A8s intake manifolds. With a custom built pigtail harness, will plug directly into the harness for the stock part number which was 077 133 062 / 077133062. This part number is NLA and is impossible to find new or used.

Performance Throttle Body Solution

Another thing that we noticed, the 2001 and up V8 Audis have a smaller throttle body plenum. This is either 65mm or 70mm. Unfortunately we ordered three different throttle bodies, and found this out the hard way. Furthermore, the bolt pattern on these is different. The inside plenum is also too small and would drastically reduced performance on our 2000 Audi A6 – if it happened to fit the bolt pattern, which they did not.

The part numbers that do not fit are the following: Bosch 0 280 750 487 / 0280750487 – Audi: 079 133 062 C / 079133062C. However, if you have a 2001 A6 / S6, A8 / S8, etc., with a smaller throttle body, this would be a great performance upgrade. We found a few companies online that sell the manifold and throttle body kits to install on a later model. You also might be able to hone out your stock manifold to open up to a 75mm opening. Although, you would need a adapter plate as the bolt pattern is slightly different.

For more information on how to get your Audi A6, 4.2L V8 Audi or any vehicles listed above, in the shop for service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

Porsche Cayman S End Link Repair

Today our customer brought in his Porsche Cayman S for an oil service. The customer dropped it off in the morning for us to spend the time it takes to fully drain the oil from the engine. Before we did the oil service, we did a 30 point courtesy inspection. We found a few things that needed service. We also found his rear stabilizer links (end links) were burned though. For example, this was where the exhaust exits the engine. This Porsche Cayman S has a FabSpeed exhaust on it. The pipes are slightly larger and do not have heat shielding on them, like the factory exhaust does. We let him know and provided a quote to replace the end links and install some exhaust heat shield wrap in that area. As a result, the customer approved and we got to work.

The Repair

First we cut the wrap to length, about 3 feet per side. Then we started wrapping on the rearward section of the exhaust and moved forward. We crossed the wrap under itself to hide the ends. Once we wrapped the heat shielding, we secured it with stainless steel crimp clamps. These are much nicer looking that metal zip ties and give it a more OEM look. Furthermore, these do not have sharp ends so you’ll never cut yourself if you brush up against them.

After securing the rearward clamp, we anchored the forward most clamp. Then, the middle clamp after that. The double clamp towards the front ensures that the wrap will not come undone.

Overall, we feel this came out fairly clean and was very simple to do.

More Info

For more information on how to get your Porsche Cayman in the shop for some service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

Custom Heat Shield – BMW E24

This is a custom heat shield we made for a German market 1980 BMW 635csi E24 w/ a M90 engine. We’ve been working on this for a while and the attention to detail is imperative. This E24 is getting a brand new Super Sprint stainless steel exhaust system. We need to make sure the heat from that is contained and stays away from the fuel tank. First, we took measurements. Then, we hand bent a flat sheet of heat shield material with a flat metal bar. After that, we trimmed the edges to the body contour. Finally, we used our bead roller to roll the edges which makes it much more rigid.

For more information on how to get your classic European in the shop for some service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

 

Why you need this?

A heat shield for your European car’s exhaust system is essential for performance and safety. The exhaust system generates high temperatures. Without a heat shield, nearby components could be damaged due to the heat. This shield acts as a barrier. It prevents heat from radiating towards sensitive parts of the vehicle, such as the undercarriage or nearby wiring harnesses. By installing a heat shield, you ensure that your car’s performance remains consistent, protecting important components from potential heat-related issues. Additionally, it helps maintain a comfortable temperature within the car’s cabin and prevents overheating, ultimately extending the lifespan of your vehicle. Prioritizing a heat shield for your European car’s exhaust system is a wise investment in both vehicle efficiency and longevity.

1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion

The other day we started on a 3d printing project for a customer’s 1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion. One of the customer’s radiator cooling fans stopped working and the engine started to overheat. The fan assembly from Jaguar were quoted between $1100 and $1400 (for 2 fans and the shroud) We told the customer that there was a second option. The other option was to convert the fans over to brushless slimline style cooling fans.

The Process

I took about 20 measurements and traced the mounting holes. Then I scanned the tracings on my flatbed scanner. After that, I digitized the files and imported them into Fusion 360. After a few hours, the CAD files were done and it was ready to print. I stayed up until about 3am, making sure the first bracket was printing ok. It wasn’t. Some of the settings needed tweaked. I changed the settings and hit print again, praying that when I woke up the print would be good.

When I woke up 3 hours later the print was almost done and looked really nice. When that was done I removed it from the build plate. Then, I hit print again. I went into the shop to start modifying the shroud.

One of my techs ended up taking the motor apart and we extracted the OEM harness connectors. I wired and loomed that electrical connector to the fan harness. Furthermore, this made for a really nice, cohesive OEM looking connection.

Fitment

This bracket will fit the following Jaguars:

  • Vanden Plas – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003
  • XJ6 – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, & 1997
  • XJ8 – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003
  • XJR – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003

How was it made?

The XJR Cooling Fan Conversion is printed on a highly modified AnyCubic Kobra Max 3d printer with Priline Polycarbonate CF. For example, here are the A-Z photos of how it was done, and how it all turned out.

Gallery

Question / Contact Meister Werks

For more information on how to get your XJR Cooling Fan Conversion installed, please call 425-254-0627. You can also contact us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

1980 Euro Spec BMW 635csi M90

Today we finish a engine for a customer’s 1980 BMW E24 635csi. Here are the specs on this build.

Engine:

M90 Euro Spec
King Bearings
CP Forged Pistons 10:1 Flat Top

Head:

Stage 3 Port & Polished
Schrick Cams
Ireland Engineering Valve Spring, Rockers, & Guides
ARP Everything.

Powder Coat:

BMW Silver: Intake, brackets, oil pan, intake manifold & plenums, coolant flanges, etc…

Stay tuned to see this 635csi, subframe repair, steering, suspension, exhaust and custom header install.

 


1985 Article about the BMW 635csi

In many ways, the 635CSi is a superlative car. It produces prodigious speed thanks to its new 3.5-liter engine. The 635csi exhibits much better handling than BMW’s early 6-series coupes. It is put together ,vith rare care. Its ergonomics are generally excellent. And now it has Bosch ABS anti-lock braking equipment for help during emergency stops. All told, the 635CSi is a very accomplished piece of work.

Still, we’re talking 3.5-liter, high-rev­ving. seven-league boots here. BMW has punched out the 3.2-liter bore from 89 to 92mm, and the torque has increased from 195 to 214 pounds-feet. This single overhead-cam six is old. but it remains atop the pack in basic design. Its aluminum hen1i head is fed by Bosch Motronic fuel injection. Crossflow intake and exhaust ports handle the breathing. and a new, adaptive Lambda-sensor control sets the fuel-air mixture more precisely through a ,vider range of operation. ·ro allow maximum spark advance at all times, BMW has not yet resorted to a knock sensor, and the 3.5-liter motor compression ratio remains a impressive 10:1. The added dis­placement has bumped up, the horsepower only from 181 to well over 250hp. However, it is tuned instead for midrange response, the big six’s power peaks at 5400 rpm, 600 rpm earlier than in the 3.2-liter. A 3.45:1 final-drive replaces the 633’s taller 3.25 gear, boosting the throttle response throughout the rpm range. but a rev limiter clips the power smartly at 6200 rpm.

Some of the photos after everything was finished up on our customer’s Germany market 1984 Porsche 928S, which included:

  • Complete Transmission Rebuild.
  • 100% Genuine OEM exhaust replacement.
  • Complete engine tune up w/ all new hoses, breathers and upper seals.
  • Powder coated intake manifolds, plenum, upper OEM tie bar, rear exhaust heat shields & bumper grill. (in house).
  • Gauge cluster odometer repair (3d printed gear, in house), w/ calibration, OEM gauge face installation.
  • Custom bumper grill brackets (3d printed, in house).
  • Horn repair wiring, Rear fuse box harness & fuse box repair.
  • Ignition & steering column repair w/ custom key surround (custom designed and 3d printed, in house).
  • Engine and transmission mounts.
  • Rear Brakes pads and rotors.
  • Under hood pad (Genuine OEM).
  • New OEM decals in engine compartment.
  • New OEM VIN decals in driver’s door jamb w/ tire inflation decals.
  • Strip off old “Porsche” & “928S” decals on rear bumper, design, cut and install graphics .
  • General service & maintenance, (Oil service, plugs, cap & rotors, plug wires, fuel filter, etc).
  • New Michelin Pilot Sport Tires.
  • Buff and polish wheels and paint.
  • Buff and polish all windows, inside and out.
  • Rock chip and scratch paint repair.
  • Gear selector repair.
  • Driver’s door check fab and repair
  • High torque starter.
  • Rear Brake pads and rotors
  • Front ball joints.
  • Four wheel alignment and more.