Throttle Body Solution Early Audi V8

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Throttle Body Solution for a Early Audi 4.2L V8

Our 2000 Audi A6 4.2L V8 loaner car had a throttle body (TB) fail on it a few weeks ago and we needed a Throttle Body Solution.For the life of us, we could not find a ne, let alone a used unit. After searching the internet on and off for days end, we finally found a compatible throttle body. Apparently the Porsche 986 996 997 & GT3  uses the exact same 75mm housing. This is Part Number: 997 Same bolt pattern and casting for a 4.2L V8 – 2000 Audi A6. It’s also the same throttle body for a 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2003 Audi A8.

Harness Pin Diagram Throttle Body

 

Harness Pin Outs

The only a few slight differences that we found. Our throttle body and the Porsche TB both have 6 pin connectors. Although, the Audi pins are an even 6 pin pattern and the Porsches are an offset 6 pin pattern. This makes the connectors non-interchangeable. Also the pin outs are different. They are not a 1 to 1 pin out. As a result, I had to build a pigtail to plug directly into our harness. I could have repinned the OE harness with a different connector, but that was more work. After finding this out, I pulled the wiring diagrams from both vehicles and the schematics for the internal units are exactly the same. The wires got to different pin numbers. The wiring diagram for the pigtail  is shown below.

Connectors

As noted above the connectors are completely different, with a different patterns. The 75mm Porsche 911 throttle body uses this part found on Amazon. There is no part number that would could find in the Porsche parts catalog. But this part fitd perfect. For the Audi side of the pigtail, we purchased this kit, also on Amazon. We only needed the male part of this, but found it less expensive to purchase both sides. The other side can be saved for another project or ‘just in case’ situation.

Part Numbers

There are a few different 75mm Porsche throttle body part numbers that can be referenced. VW, Porsche and Bosch use different part numbers, however they all are the same part. The Porsche number, seen in the photo, is 997 605 115 01 / 99760511501. The Bosch part number 0 280 750 474 / 0280750474. The VW part number is 002 133 062 AJ / 022133062AJ, although no VW pr Audis that we know of uses this part. Porsche is owned by VW so naturally they put a VW part number on there. Fairly common throughout the history of VW, Audi and Porsche partnerships.

This throttle body bolts directly onto a stock 2000 Audi A6 and 2000-2003 A8s intake manifolds. With a custom built pigtail harness, will plug directly into the harness for the stock part number which was 077 133 062 / 077133062. This part number is NLA and is impossible to find new or used.

Performance Throttle Body Solution

Another thing that we noticed, the 2001 and up V8 Audis have a smaller throttle body plenum. This is either 65mm or 70mm. Unfortunately we ordered three different throttle bodies, and found this out the hard way. Furthermore, the bolt pattern on these is different. The inside plenum is also too small and would drastically reduced performance on our 2000 Audi A6 – if it happened to fit the bolt pattern, which they did not.

The part numbers that do not fit are the following: Bosch 0 280 750 487 / 0280750487 – Audi: 079 133 062 C / 079133062C. However, if you have a 2001 A6 / S6, A8 / S8, etc., with a smaller throttle body, this would be a great performance upgrade. We found a few companies online that sell the manifold and throttle body kits to install on a later model. You also might be able to hone out your stock manifold to open up to a 75mm opening. Although, you would need a adapter plate as the bolt pattern is slightly different.

Audi Connector
Porsche Connector
Pigtail

For more information on how to get your Audi A6, 4.2L V8 Audi or any vehicles listed above, in the shop for service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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Porsche Cayman S End Link Repair

Porsche Cayman S End Link Repair

Today our customer brought in his Porsche Cayman S for an oil service. The customer dropped it off in the morning for us to spend the time it takes to fully drain the oil from the engine. Before we did the oil service, we did a 30 point courtesy inspection. We found a few things that needed service. We also found his rear stabilizer links (end links) were burned though. For example, this was where the exhaust exits the engine. This Porsche Cayman S has a FabSpeed exhaust on it. The pipes are slightly larger and do not have heat shielding on them, like the factory exhaust does. We let him know and provided a quote to replace the end links and install some exhaust heat shield wrap in that area. As a result, the customer approved and we got to work.

Left Burned Link Ends
Right Burned Link Ends
Bottom Left Burned Link Ends
Right Side Complete
Completed Left Side with Tire on

The Repair

First we cut the wrap to length, about 3 feet per side. Then we started wrapping on the rearward section of the exhaust and moved forward. We crossed the wrap under itself to hide the ends. Once we wrapped the heat shielding, we secured it with stainless steel crimp clamps. These are much nicer looking that metal zip ties and give it a more OEM look. Furthermore, these do not have sharp ends so you’ll never cut yourself if you brush up against them.

After securing the rearward clamp, we anchored the forward most clamp. Then, the middle clamp after that. The double clamp towards the front ensures that the wrap will not come undone.

Overall, we feel this came out fairly clean and was very simple to do.

More Info

For more information on how to get your Porsche Cayman in the shop for some service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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Custom Heat Shield – BMW E24

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Custom Heat Shield – BMW E24

This is a custom heat shield we made for a German market 1980 BMW 635csi E24 w/ a M90 engine. We’ve been working on this for a while and the attention to detail is imperative. This E24 is getting a brand new Super Sprint stainless steel exhaust system. We need to make sure the heat from that is contained and stays away from the fuel tank. First, we took measurements. Then, we hand bent a flat sheet of heat shield material with a flat metal bar. After that, we trimmed the edges to the body contour. Finally, we used our bead roller to roll the edges which makes it much more rigid.

Rear Heat Shield
Left Heat Shield
Right Heat Shield
Heat Shield w/ SS Exhaust Installed

For more information on how to get your classic European in the shop for some service, maintenance or custom work, contact us at 425-254-0627. You can also schedule an appointment or receive a quote by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and at the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

 

Why you need this?

A heat shield for your European car’s exhaust system is essential for performance and safety. The exhaust system generates high temperatures. Without a heat shield, nearby components could be damaged due to the heat. This shield acts as a barrier. It prevents heat from radiating towards sensitive parts of the vehicle, such as the undercarriage or nearby wiring harnesses. By installing a heat shield, you ensure that your car’s performance remains consistent, protecting important components from potential heat-related issues. Additionally, it helps maintain a comfortable temperature within the car’s cabin and prevents overheating, ultimately extending the lifespan of your vehicle. Prioritizing a heat shield for your European car’s exhaust system is a wise investment in both vehicle efficiency and longevity.

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1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion

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1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion

The other day we started on a 3d printing project for a customer’s 1998 Jaguar XJR Cooling Fan Conversion. One of the customer’s radiator cooling fans stopped working and the engine started to overheat. The fan assembly from Jaguar were quoted between $1100 and $1400 (for 2 fans and the shroud) We told the customer that there was a second option. The other option was to convert the fans over to brushless slimline style cooling fans.

The Process

I took about 20 measurements and traced the mounting holes. Then I scanned the tracings on my flatbed scanner. After that, I digitized the files and imported them into Fusion 360. After a few hours, the CAD files were done and it was ready to print. I stayed up until about 3am, making sure the first bracket was printing ok. It wasn’t. Some of the settings needed tweaked. I changed the settings and hit print again, praying that when I woke up the print would be good.

When I woke up 3 hours later the print was almost done and looked really nice. When that was done I removed it from the build plate. Then, I hit print again. I went into the shop to start modifying the shroud.

One of my techs ended up taking the motor apart and we extracted the OEM harness connectors. I wired and loomed that electrical connector to the fan harness. Furthermore, this made for a really nice, cohesive OEM looking connection.

Fitment

This bracket will fit the following Jaguars:

  • Vanden Plas – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003
  • XJ6 – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, & 1997
  • XJ8 – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003
  • XJR – 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, & 2003

How was it made?

The XJR Cooling Fan Conversion is printed on a highly modified AnyCubic Kobra Max 3d printer with Priline Polycarbonate CF. For example, here are the A-Z photos of how it was done, and how it all turned out.

Gallery

Front – Fans and shroud disassembled
Rear – Fans and shroud disassembled
Bolt pattern on the back of the fan shroud.
Measurements, tracings and templates we made of the shroud and fan motor mounts.
Digitizing the measurements, tracings and templates.
Drafting the digitized measurements, tracings and templates.
Bottom Angle
Top Angle
Minor modification of the slimline fans. Left side is modified.
Another shot of the minor modification of the slimline fans.. Left side is modified.
Printed bracket mocked up for some minor trimming.
Marks for trimming shroud for fitting the bracket.
How we clearanced the shroud for the bracket.
One last modification. This had a piece sticking up about 3/4″ / 20mm that has to be removed.
Test fit. Check.
Fitting the brackets, both sides
Mounting the fans.
Fans installed. Hindsight, I should have wired the plugs first.
Install – Back side
Quarter shot of the fans installed
OEM fan connectors wired and loomed
Upper fan close up of the OEM fan connector.
Lower fan close up of the OEM fan connector.
Another lower fan shot.
One last upper fan connector close up.
Front side – Complete
Ready for install
Rear – Ready for install
Side shot rear – ready for install
Front side shot – ready for install
Installed
Upper shot installed with much more room to service belts, etc.

Question / Contact Meister Werks

For more information on how to get your XJR Cooling Fan Conversion installed, please call 425-254-0627. You can also contact us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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European BMW 635csi

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1980 Euro Spec BMW 635csi M90

Today we finish a engine for a customer’s 1980 BMW E24 635csi. Here are the specs on this build.

Engine:

M90 Euro Spec
King Bearings
CP Forged Pistons 10:1 Flat Top

Head:

Stage 3 Port & Polished
Schrick Cams
Ireland Engineering Valve Spring, Rockers, & Guides
ARP Everything.

Powder Coat:

BMW Silver: Intake, brackets, oil pan, intake manifold & plenums, coolant flanges, etc…

Stay tuned to see this 635csi, subframe repair, steering, suspension, exhaust and custom header install.

 

1985 Article about the BMW 635csi

In many ways, the 635CSi is a superlative car. It produces prodigious speed thanks to its new 3.5-liter engine. The 635csi exhibits much better handling than BMW’s early 6-series coupes. It is put together ,vith rare care. Its ergonomics are generally excellent. And now it has Bosch ABS anti-lock braking equipment for help during emergency stops. All told, the 635CSi is a very accomplished piece of work.

Still, we’re talking 3.5-liter, high-rev­ving. seven-league boots here. BMW has punched out the 3.2-liter bore from 89 to 92mm, and the torque has increased from 195 to 214 pounds-feet. This single overhead-cam six is old. but it remains atop the pack in basic design. Its aluminum hen1i head is fed by Bosch Motronic fuel injection. Crossflow intake and exhaust ports handle the breathing. and a new, adaptive Lambda-sensor control sets the fuel-air mixture more precisely through a ,vider range of operation. ·ro allow maximum spark advance at all times, BMW has not yet resorted to a knock sensor, and the 3.5-liter motor compression ratio remains a impressive 10:1. The added dis­placement has bumped up, the horsepower only from 181 to well over 250hp. However, it is tuned instead for midrange response, the big six’s power peaks at 5400 rpm, 600 rpm earlier than in the 3.2-liter. A 3.45:1 final-drive replaces the 633’s taller 3.25 gear, boosting the throttle response throughout the rpm range. but a rev limiter clips the power smartly at 6200 rpm.

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Wrapping up the 1984 Porsche 928S Project

Some of the photos after everything was finished up on our customer’s Germany market 1984 Porsche 928S, which included:

  • Complete Transmission Rebuild.
  • 100% Genuine OEM exhaust replacement.
  • Complete engine tune up w/ all new hoses, breathers and upper seals.
  • Powder coated intake manifolds, plenum, upper OEM tie bar, rear exhaust heat shields & bumper grill. (in house).
  • Gauge cluster odometer repair (3d printed gear, in house), w/ calibration, OEM gauge face installation.
  • Custom bumper grill brackets (3d printed, in house).
  • Horn repair wiring, Rear fuse box harness & fuse box repair.
  • Ignition & steering column repair w/ custom key surround (custom designed and 3d printed, in house).
  • Engine and transmission mounts.
  • Rear Brakes pads and rotors.
  • Under hood pad (Genuine OEM).
  • New OEM decals in engine compartment.
  • New OEM VIN decals in driver’s door jamb w/ tire inflation decals.
  • Strip off old “Porsche” & “928S” decals on rear bumper, design, cut and install graphics .
  • General service & maintenance, (Oil service, plugs, cap & rotors, plug wires, fuel filter, etc).
  • New Michelin Pilot Sport Tires.
  • Buff and polish wheels and paint.
  • Buff and polish all windows, inside and out.
  • Rock chip and scratch paint repair.
  • Gear selector repair.
  • Driver’s door check fab and repair
  • High torque starter.
  • Rear Brake pads and rotors
  • Front ball joints.
  • Four wheel alignment and more.
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T4 Eurovan Coolant Bottle Bracket Adapter

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T4.5 Eurovan Coolant Bottle Bracket Adapter

We had to make a custom adapter for a T4.5 Eurovan Coolant Bottle Bracket Adapter the other day. We needed a new coolant reservoir for our customer’s 2001 Volkswagen Eurovan VR6 MV. The warehouse sent me the wrong reservoir (Ver C, and not a Ver E). (701 121 407 E). The Ver C is for 1999-2000 Eurovans with a 12v VR6 engine, however all the connections and hoses are the same. It’s just 180º off from the one we needed. Apparently the Ver E coolant reservoirs are no longer available (NLA) and virtually impossible to find. We searched Classic VW parts, eBay and other sites and came up with zero results. Ver C is still available, however it is also hard to find, but they are available special ordered new from Europe. If you need a Ver C reservoir, we can get one for you.

Instead of wasting time trying to find a new one, or installing a used part, we drafted a file in Fusion 360. Then we 3d printed this bracket. Printed with PA12-CF Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber (25%CF/75%Poly). The bracket is safe up to 220c / 428ºF. This will adapts the older C style bottles with the overflow return on the left / drivers side. These other tanks are readily available. Furthermore, this will fit so the left / drivers side electrical connection (coolant level sensor) fits the configuration for Eurovans with the Ver E bottles. Fits 2001+ T4.5 Eurovan / Transporter / Caravelle – 24v Engines, with the bottle that mounts to the core support. We also installed some brass inserts so we can just bolt it right in and the tank can be replaced it in the future, if need be.

Version 2.0

We revised our design a little to make it both easier to print and use less material. It’s just as strong as Ver 1.0.

 

More Info

For more information on how to get your Volkswagen Eurovan Repaired, please call 425-254-0627. You can also email us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

Purchase

If you would like to purchase one of these. You can do so by clicking the link below. These are made to order, so the turn time on these is approx 3-5 days to ship + shipping time.

Click Here to go to the shop site.

 

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1984 Porsche 928 S Bumper Grill Restoration

This 1984 Porsche 928 S has been in the shop for some repairs, service, and minor restorations. It was a gray market car, imported to the USA and originally sold in Germany.  Some modifications had been performed at different shops previously that was not to our customer’s liking.  One of the items we repaired in house was rebuilding the transmission and repairing the broken gauge cluster. Another item was trying to find a new old stock OEM exhaust to replace the awful sounding aftermarket exhaust – which to our amazement, we did. Another item on our customer’s wish list was to source a original lower center, 928 S bumper grill.

Sourcing the Grill

We were able to source a complete unit, in decent shape, which was not inexpensive even in this poor condition. We looked over the product listing photos and knew a thorough restoration was going to be necessary. This was definitely something we knew we could tackle in house. These photos below show the condition when the grill arrived.

When we received the grill we noticed all the hardware was rusty, so that would need to be refurbished or replaced. Also, the plastic brackets that hold the aluminum grill inserts were painted. They were also on the brink of breaking and extremely flexible. Those would also need to be replaced. Even though the brackets are still somewhat available on some specialty websites, we had an idea on how to upgrade these while still retaining the OEM look. Since we have multiple 3d printers in house, this technology was first thing that came to mind.

Disassembly

First, we started by disassembling everything and bagging and inventorying all the hardware. We took the metal grill inserts to our in house powder coating department to get stripped, blasted and coated.

Drafting the CAD Files

While the grill inserts were in powder, we took the brackets and scanned the profile them on a flatbed scanner. Since flatbed scanners, scan to a 1:1 ratio, we knew the profile sizing and dimensions on screen would be 100% perfect. We took the scans into Adobe photoshop and manipulated the contrast to make it easier to see the profile. After that, we saved the file and imported it into Adobe Illustrator. This is where we created vector outlines of the center and outside brackets. After the profiles were established, we deleted the imported scanned image and exported the file to a CAD format. We imported that into Fusion 360, where we drew up our 3d model for printing.

While in Fusion 360, we added additional supports, removed all the recesses that the OEM bracket have and pocketed each of the 5mm screw holes. Below is the transition of the files, from start to finish.

Flatbed Scans
Illustrator Vector Profiles
CAD Drawings Bottom
CAD Drawings Top

After the Fusion 360 CAD drawings were complete, we exported these to a .STL file and sent them to the 3d Printer. Our AnyCubic Kobra Max is capable of printing 15.9″ x 15.9″ x 17.7″ Tall. We can print a wide variety of materials such as PLA, TPU, and for more industrial applications, carbon fiber nylon blend.

Once the parts came off the printer, we mocked up the grill inserts to the brackets. To our amazement, the brackets fit really well, directly off the printer. Immediately we noticed how much stronger these were compared to the OEM brackets. Furthermore, the reinforcements allowed for very little flex to the upper grill section. We performed some minor finish work and deburred the pieces. When the grill sections came out of powder coating, they would be ready to assemble.

Assembly

At this point in the project, the grill inserts were out of powder coating and ready to go with a fresh coat of Cardinal Powder Semi-Gloss Black T002-BK08. We now started assembling the grill. However, one thing that was not compensated for while designing the brackets was the thicker tolerances.  When we reinforced the brackets joints in programming, we made them thicker than the OEM measurements. Our hardware was a little too short. We sourced some metric black oxide socket head screws that were 3mm longer.

While installing the bumper grill, we found out a interesting thing. The North America (NA) bumpers grill brackets are different than the European E-Code bumpers. The brackets have a slightly different mounting location due to the fact that they are slightly shorter. To sold this, we had to modify the lower mount to be able to accept the NA brackets. It wasn’t worth printing new parts as we just had to drill a hole in each lower bracket and trim off the bottom tab just a little.

This is how it looked after installing the grill:

In conclusion, the assembly went perfect after sourcing those. Overall the project turned out really nice.  We believe our customer will be really happy with the final outcome. Stay tuned for our next post where we remove and install the rear Porsche 928S decals and repair the gauge cluster using 3d printing technology again.

For more information on how to get your Porsche back to OEM condition, please call 425-254-0627. You can also email us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

 

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1960 Porsche 356b Shifter Rebuild

1960 Porsche 356b Shifter Rebuild

Last week our tech Jonathan and I were able to repair Craig’s (Rennfilms), 1960 Porsche 356b shifter. When driving this beautiful Porsche, It was difficult to find gears and made very sloppy shifts. This was due to the fact that it was missing the main lower ball pivot. It also had some poorly fabricated sheet metal, installed from the previous owner, which was not helping the situation. We had talked to Craig about this concern the last couple times he was in for service and seat bracket fabrication. We decided now was the time to do this.

Starting the project

First, I found a photo off the internet of the exact part we needed. This is really all we had to go by. Since we only had the shifter itself. The other measurements I had were the spring size and the dimensions for opening of the lower stick. I brought the photo into Adobe Illustrator and resized the photo so the hole size slightly larger that the known lower stick size of 20mm. Based off of that, I extrapolated the degree in which the photo was taken. After that, I calculated the outer ball perimeter, ball height and overall height. 

Next, I opened up Fusion 360 to start drafting our CAD file. Using our notes from the internet JPG image dimensions, I was able to come up with this drawing.

The 3d Printer

Since we print replacement parts with high temp resin, we must calculate the shrink rate. This is typically between 1-3%. Using a little simple math, that number needed to be around 103%. For safe measure, we printed 100% through 104%. Furthermore, there was going to be some margin of error. It takes about and hour to print these, so we wanted every option when we started assembling the shifter.. The 104% part fit best, although the 103% would have worked, we wanted some tolerance.

After the part came out we post processed it in a wash / cure station. Washing it with 99% isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes and curing it with high intensity UV light for 6 minutes. This will harden the resin and prevent it from failing in the future.

While I was drafting and printing the parts, Jonathan media blasted the shifter housing and put a light coat of satin epoxy paint on it. We would have powder coated this in house, but the customer was picking up the same day. Powder coating will add a few hours to the project. If we need to make any adjustments in the future, we will powder coat it. Disassembly is fairly simple so it shouldn’t take too much addition time.

Assembly

After post processing the parts, Jonathan and I took them to the bench to test the sizes and fitment. You can see from this photo that the fit was spot on at 104%.

Parts all layed out
Bottom Fitment
Top fitment
Assembled
Close up of the assembly
Jonathan installing the shift linkage dry

From here, we performed a dry fit before lubricating the mechanism. They dry fit felt night and day better, and that was without any grease. We removed the shifter for the last time, greased up all the components and reinstalled the shifter assembly. The feel was 100% OEM and each gear was defined, with no lateral movement while in gear. Reverse felt so much different than before, which might take a little getting use to for the customer. (In a good way)

In Conclusion

Overall we were very pleased with how this shifter turned out. The customer was very pleased with the results. Considering the short wait time to make the part and its functionality, It’s pretty amazing that we can replicate parts like this. 15 years ago, this was mythology.

Since we have six different 3D printers (SDA resin and FDM filament), we have the ability to print polyurethane and other synthetic components. With build plate dimensions from 4-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ x 6″ tall all the way up to 16″ x 16″ x 17″ Tall – The possibilities are almost endless.

Information / Schedule

For more information on how to get your classic European vehicle or Porsche repaired, please call 425-254-0627. You can also email us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from the former Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

 

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Project 1991 Mercedes-Benz 560sec

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Project 1991 Mercedes-Benz 560sec

It’s been a long road to completion but we finally got Project 1991 Mercedes-Benz 560sec finished today. Our customer came in about 6 months ago wanting to do a air suspension install on his 1991 Mercedes-Benz 560sec. We wrote him a quote based off his needs and some suggestions from Meister Werks. After approving the quote we ordered all the parts necessary to install his custom setup. The customer also wanted us to have the bumpers, side mouldings, mirrors and door handles painted white to match the body. We contacted our friends at Automotive Solutions to come out and do all the body work, prep and paint.

Fast forward a few weeks later, Covid-19 / Coronavirus hit the Seattle area and thus started the parts delays. It took a few months of waiting to get all the parts in. A few months later in March, we finally received everything and the install started very soon after.

Install Begins

We began the install by removing the bumpers, side mouldings, mirrors and door handles. While these parts were out, we started polishing the OEM stainless steel trim. After all the parts went into paint, we began the air suspension portion. We started the air system by disassembling the custom stereo setup in the trunk. The car stereo installer had fabricated a custom enclosure to house the rose gold plated air tank, Air Zenith air compressors and Airlift 3p manifold. We bent custom hard lines, powder coated them white (to match the body) and affixed all the fittings to the components. After we did this, we install them into the custom build enclosure. After that, we wired the Air Zenith OB2 compressors with 4 gauge wires and 80 amp fuses. We also ran the harness to the Airlift 3p manifold, connected the remote wire to the ignition on circuit and installed the 3p controller in the Mercedes-Benz 560sec center console. 

We had many issues with the custom air bags we purchased from a company in Germany. The bags were rubbing on the body and the upper bag mount did not line up with the control arms. Countless hours corresponding, assembly, disassembly, reassembly, photos and diagrams were sent to the manufacturers. After weeks of communications, we

finally got results and newly machined parts were shipped from Germany. After 3 additional weeks, we received new parts. Unfortunately the parts still did not work right. So we decided to machine the new parts in house to get them to work. What we machined was perfection and will be able to replicate this on any future projects. The Mercedes-Benz is now able to air up properly, lay frame and not rub on the body. These additional modifications to the air suspension was much better than the original kit.

More Custom

We also had to delete the Mercedes-Benz factory hydraulic suspension. To do this we removed the rear shocks, removed the hydraulic pump on the engine and machined a custom block off plate. We used 6061 T6 aluminum to machine this part in our inhouse machine shop. We also made a custom gasket on our CNC cutter. Everything installed perfect, with no leaks or issues.

The components now installed, we attach the air lines using OEM brake line clips to secure the air lines in place. While all the the work was being done, we assembled and sealed the custom rose gold plated AMG wheels and mounted and balanced the tires. After test fitting the wheels, we knew we needed spacers on the front to give this beautiful Mercedes-Benz 560sec a flush fit when rolling down the road.

After all this hard work, we finally were able to test the system for air leaks, button up the trunk and make sure all the small details were handled.

Project 1991 Mercedes-Benz 560sec Build List

  • Airlift Performance 3p management
  • OB2 dual air compressors
  • 4 Gallon Specialty Suspension seamless air tank – plated rose gold*
  • Custom hard lines at Meister Werks
  • Air suspension install at Meister Werks
  • Front bags & hydraulic pump block off plate custom machined at Meister Werks
  •  Rose gold plated* AMG wheels & OZ lips & barrels assembled and sealed at Meister Werks
  • Bumpers, mirrors, door handles, moldings, body work & paint at Meister Werks by Automotive Solutions
    * All custom rose gold plating done at the customer’s shop in California.

To make an appointment for your custom air ride, stop by or call 425-254-0627. You can also email us by clicking here. Meister Werks European & Import is located one block south from The Renton Landing in Renton, WA, across the street from The Boeing Store and on the westside of the Paccar / Kenworth plant.

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